In normal mammals, acute perturbations of the permeability barrier elicit metabolic responses in the underlying epidermis that rapidly restore barrier homeostasis. These responses include the rapid secretion of a preformed pool of LBs (
Menon et al., 1985,
1992) and the stimulation of lipid synthesis (
Menon et al., 1985;
Grubauer et al., 1989). This initial cascade leads to partial barrier restoration, with the final stages of barrier repair resulting sequentially from (1) an upregulation of epidermal ceramide synthesis (
Holleran et al., 1991); (2) increased production of lipid-processing enzymes (
Holleran et al., 1992), such as β-GlcCer'ase (
Holleran et al., 1994); and (3) increased epidermal DNA synthesis (
Proksch et al., 1991). Normalization of barrier function is largely completed by 35 hours in mice (
Menon et al., 1985;
Grubauer et al., 1989). Given the rapidity of the amplified response to acute barrier disruption in normal epidermis, it is remarkable that a further decrease in the pH of normal SC significantly accelerates the timetable of barrier recovery in both humans and mice. Also of interest is the apparent lack of toxicity of PHA applications to mouse skin, reflecting the localization of metabolic effects to the SC alone, as shown by FLIM analysis.
The improved function of hyperacidified SC could be attributed not only to a broad reduction in SC pH but also to a still further reduction of pH within SC membrane domains. The decline in pH (from 5.5–6 to levels of ≤5) further optimizes the activities of two key lipid-processing enzymes, β-GlcCer'ase and aSMase, which both display optimum activities at ≈ pH ≤5.0 (
Vaccaro et al., 1985;
Takagi et al., 1999), and which further localize to membrane domains of the SC (these studies;
Vaccaro et al., 1985;
Hachem et al., 2003;
Igarashi et al., 2004). The pH-induced boost in lipid-processing enzymes, in turn, appears to accelerate the rate of maturation of secreted LB contents into broad lamellar membranes. Thus, improved lipid processing accounts, at least in part, for the hyperacidification-induced improvement in permeability barrier homeostasis. Hyperacidification could also improve barrier function by a second mechanism, that is, a pH-induced decline in SP activity (
Hachem et al., 2006a), that could accelerate LB secretion (
Denda et al., 1997), in a protease-activated receptor-2-dependent manner (
Hachem et al., 2006a), but this mechanism was not assessed in these studies.
The decline in pH also improves SC integrity and cohesion (decreasing desquamation rates), because of a further reduction in the already low basal SP activity to levels that became almost undetectable. The further decline in SP activity is consistent with the neutral-to-alkaline pH optima of SP in general and of klk5 and klk7 specifically (
Brattsand et al., 2005). Although the epidermis contains a broad panoply of klks, these two SP, and the recently described klk8 (
Kishibe et al., 2007), appear to be the dominant, desquamatory SP of the SC (
Caubet et al., 2004;
Brattsand et al., 2005). As SP activity reverts to basal or supernormal levels when previously acidified SC is neutralized, a pH-induced decrease in enzyme protein levels likely does not account for the hyperacidification-induced decline in SP activity, a conclusion supported by western blot quantitation of these proteins. These observed shifts in enzyme activity have important structural consequences that explain the apparent benefits of hyperacidification for desquamation. Similarly,
Fartasch et al. (1997) showed that 3 weeks of treatment with a 4% glycolic enhanced desmosomal breakdown only within the stratum disjunctum, whereas desmosomes of the stratum compactum were unaffected and appeared more compacted (
Fartasch et al., 1997). Moreover,
Kim et al. (2001) applied both glycolic and lactic acid at 5% for 14 days on hairless mouse flanks and showed a reduction in SC thickness on the sites of acid application (
Kim et al., 2001).
In our studies, we used a single application of PHA on either intact or tape-stripped SC to assess the integrity and permeability barrier function of SC. We showed that the reduction in SP activity correlated with increased CD density in the deeper layers of hyperacidified SC, explaining the improved SC integrity and cohesion at this level and the compacted appearance of the SC at deeper levels. Yet decreased SP activity alone cannot explain the improved integrity and the increase in CD density. We also observed that SC hyperacidification induces the expression of DSG3, which is normally absent from the SC. Although our zymographic data clearly show a decrease in SP activity, both klk5 and 7 could still retain some activity, even at lower pH levels (
Caubet et al., 2004). The observed increase in LB secretion reported by
Kim et al. (2001) could either be related to a reduction in SP activity and protease-activated receptor-2 signaling of LB secretion (
Hachem et al., 2006a) or it could reflect increased epidermal proliferation, a well-known consequence of topical alpha-hydroxyl acid applications (
Ditre et al., 1996). The SC pH gradient allows the precise regulation of klk5 activity by controlling the interaction of this SP with the SP inhibitor, LEKTI, leading to the release of active klk from LEKTI–klk complexes at an acidic pH and klk-mediated corneodesmosomal cleavage in the superficial layers of the SC (
Deraison et al., 2007). We propose, therefore, that SC acidification allows the dissociation of LEKTI–klk complexes, inhibiting DSG1 degradation in lower SC. Klk5 still possesses a proteolytic activity profile at pH 5.6 (
Caubet et al., 2004), activating the klk cascade and allowing degradation of CDs (
Caubet et al., 2004;
Emami and Diamandis, 2008). Mutations of LEKTI in the Netherton syndrome cause unrestricted activation of SP, resulting in DSG1 breakdown, also accompanied by a compensatory expression of DSG3 (
Hachem et al., 2006b), as observed here. Thus, the improved integrity and cohesion of the SC from PHA treatment can likely be attributed to both a decrease in bulk SC protease activity leading to DSG1 persistence and the induction of DSG3 in the lower SC.
As cysteine and aspartate proteases, two protease families with acidic pH optima (i.e., cathepsin D, E, L2), are also present in the SC (
Bernard et al., 2003;
Igarashi et al., 2004), it is possible that hyperacidification of SC could accelerate desquamation, based on increased cathepsin activity. Yet hyperacidification alone under these conditions did not appear to increase cathepsin D activity. These findings are at odds with other work, which has shown, for example, that glycolic acid applications increase desquamation rates in parallel with an increase in cathepsin D activity in the outer SC (
Horikoshi et al., 2005). Yet the amounts of glycolic acid applied in the Horikoshi group's study was as high as 50%, and surface pH was drastically reduced (to ≈2); hence, it is possible that accelerated desquamation reflected toxic effects, unrelated consequences of bulk α-hydroacids, and/or suboptimal pH levels. Increased cathepsin D activates transglutaminase-1, stimulating the formation of the cornified envelope (
Egberts et al., 2004), suggesting an alternate, important target for this aspartate protease in barrier function. The cysteine protease, cathepsin L2, another enzyme with an acidic pH optimum, is also expressed as a pro-enzyme in the lower layers of the SC, followed by its activation by as-yet unidentified mechanisms in the outer SC layers (
Bernard et al., 2003). Thus, acidification alone also might not suffice to activate cathepsin L2. In summary, it is likely that the effects of hyperacidification are largely restricted to changes in the activities of the relevant lipid-processing and desquamatory SP within the SC, as the activities of desquamatory enzymes with an acidic pH do not appear to increase with hyperacidification.
Yet hyperacidification could, in theory, have adverse effects for the barrier should it decrease the activity of another, important lipid-processing enzyme(s), with a neutral-to-alkaline pH optimum, that is, sPLA
2. This apparent paradox can be explained by the fact that hyperacidification is a key consequence of FFA generation by sPLA
2 activity, thereby improving barrier function, SC integrity/cohesion, and membrane structure (
Fluhr et al., 2004b). Thus, exogenous hyperacidification, as used here, likely bypasses the potentially negative consequences of reduced FFA generation that could result from the inhibition of sPLA
2. Pertinently, the acidification of ceramide–cholesterol–FFA mixtures
in vitro further enhances membrane interactions (
Bouwsta et al., 2000), which could represent yet another barrier-improving mechanism of hyperacidification.
The topical application of hydroxyl acids in peels or formulation has been widely used for multiple dermatological conditions from photoaging (
Van Scott et al., 1996) to the treatment of congenital (
Van Scott and Yu, 1974) or acquired hyperkeratosis (
Van Scott and Yu, 1989).
Ditre et al. (1996) applied 25% glycolic, lactic, or citric acid to the forearm for 6 months, which caused an approximate 25% increase in skin thickness (
Ditre et al., 1996). Although the studies were carried out on the forearms, the authors concluded that alpha hydroxyl acids application produced a significant reversal of epidermal and dermal markers of photoaging (
Ditre et al., 1996). In our studies, we used lower levels of topically applied PHA not only to decrease SC pH but also to maintain its levels within physiological ranges.
Rawlings et al. (1996) showed that the topical application of either
l- or
d-lactic acid (4% in aqueous vehicle) improves permeability barrier function in humans together with increased levels of ceramides in the SC (
Rawlings et al., 1996). Accordingly, we found that acidification of membrane domains within the lower SC (i.e., FLIM data) increases both β-GlcCer'ase and aSMase activity, which in turn will increase the lipid processing and ceramide content in the SC. Yet both
Rawlings et al. (1996) and
Berardesca et al. (1997) also found that the positive effects of either alpha-hydroxyl acids or PHA on epidermal barrier function are not equal for all acids. This could be linked to the differences in the bioavailability of these acids within SC membrane domains or to the effect of salt formation derived from the neutralization of the applied acids. As our main aim in this study is to assess SC acidification alone, we used as control for our studies the neutralized form of the PHA, thus limiting the positive or negative effects of salt formation. In addition, the bioavailability within the deep domains of the SC PHA was verified using FLIM.
In summary, hyperacidification generates a “super-barrier” largely, if not solely, through its impact on the activities of the lipid-processing and desquamatory enzymes. Moreover, the reduction in pH produces neither inflammation nor hyperplasia, nor changes in epidermal lipid synthesis, further evidence that, under these conditions, PHA do not affect the underlying nucleated cell layers.