The process of skin ageing has been divided into two categories: Intrinsic and extrinsic ageing [
1-
3]. Intrinsic skin ageing or natural ageing is caused by changes in elasticity of the skin over time. Extrinsic skin ageing is predominately a result of exposure to solar radiation (photoageing) [
1-
4]. UV exposure causes physical changes to the skin due to alterations that occur in the connective tissue via the formation of lipid peroxides, cell contents and enzymes [
5], and reactive oxygen species (ROS) [
1,
6]. Lipid peroxides can be metabolised to form secondary products which damage the extracellular matrix (ECM) while ROS are credited with involvement in the loss of skin elasticity [
1,
6] and in diseases such as arthritis, diabetes and cancer [
6]. Biological systems need ROS for metabolic pathways and thus the body is capable of forming reactive species such as superoxide (O
2-) and nitric oxide (NO) [
5]. When ROS are overproduced, redox-active transition metal ions such as iron(II) or copper(II) can cause severe oxidative stress and thus damage tissues and the cellular DNA, protein, lipid and carbohydrate constituents within [
6]. Superoxide dismutase (SOD) which naturally breaks down O
2- into H
2O
2and O
2 has a short plasma half-life and thus novel SOD mimetics are being developed [
7]. Flavonoids derived from plants can form complexes with metal ions which mean they have the potential to bind with metalloenzymes thus altering or inhibiting metabolic pathways [
8] and flavonoid-metal complexes have shown potential to be SOD mimetics [
9].
Eighty percent of skin dry weight is collagen which is responsible for the tensile strength of the skin. Elasticity is due to the elastin fibre network making up 2–4% of the ECM and glycoaminoglycans (GAG's) are involved in the hydration of the skin [
2]. Collagen fibres, elastin fibres and GAGs are produced by fibroblasts and are primarily affected by photoageing resulting in visible changes in the skin such as wrinkles, pigmentation and changes in thickness [
1,
2]. ROS are also capable of inducing expression of proteinases which are responsible for remodelling the extracellular matrix such as matrix metalloproteinases (MMPs) and serine proteases [
10].
MMPs are part of a group of transmembrane zinc containing endopeptidases which include collagenases and gelatinases. Collagenases are metalloproteinases capable of cleaving other molecules found within the cell for example collagenase-2 (MMP-8) can cleave aggrecan, elastin, fibronectin, gelatine and laminin as well as collagen [
11]. Collagenase cleaves the X-gly bond of collagen and also synthetic peptides that contain the sequence -Pro-X-Gly-Pro where X is almost any amino acid provided that the amino terminus is blocked [
12]. Collagenase from the bacteria
Clostridium histolyticum (ChC) also degrades ECM. This bacterial collagenase hydrolyses triple-helical collagen in both physiological conditions and
in vitro conditions using synthetic peptides as substrates [
10,
12]. In this study ChC was used to test the extracts for anti-collagenase activity.
Another proteolytic system involved in the degradation of the ECM is that of serine proteases one of which is elastase. Elastase, a member of the chymotrypsin family of proteases, is responsible primarily for the breakdown of elastin which is an important protein found within the ECM. Elastin, due to its unique elastic recoil properties, is vital for giving elasticity to arteries, lungs, ligaments and skin [
10,
13-
15]. Elastases can cleave elastin as well as having a broad substrate portfolio including ability to cleave collagen, fibronectin and other ECM proteins [
14,
15]. As with the metalloproteinases, under normal conditions elastase activity is necessary after wounding to degrade foreign proteins within the ECM during phagocytosis by neutrophils to enable tissue repair [
14,
15]. In terms of anti-ageing, finding inhibitors of elastase enzymes can be useful to prevent loss of skin elasticity and thus skin sagging.
Natural products as inhibitors of ChC and elastase
Secondary metabolites and whole extracts from plants have been widely investigated and found to have anti-collagenase and anti-elastase activities. Plants contain a wide variety of compounds including polyphenols such as flavonoids, tocopherols, phenolic acids and tannins which have been found to provide ChC inhibitory compounds or a platform on which to synthesize active molecules. Isolated green tea (
Camellia sinensis) polyphenols such as catechin and epigallocatechin gallate (EGCG) have been found to be inhibitors of collagenase and elastase [
10]. These are powerful bioflavonoids with strong anti-oxidant activity Aloe gel constituents (aloins) have also been isolated from Aloe vera (
Aloe barbadensis) and have been found to show inhibition of collagenase
in vitro [
16]. Triterpenoids known as boswellic acids isolated from frankincense (
Boswellia spp.) resin have also been shown to have anti-elastase activity [
14]. In one study, 150 plant extracts were tested for their ability to inhibit elastase in which six plants showed activity over 65%. These included cinnamon (
Cinnamonum cassia), turmeric (
Curcuma longa) and nutmeg (
Myristica fragrans) [
17]. Polyphenols isolated from persimmon (
Diospyros kaki) leaf showed anti-collagenolytic and anti-elastase activity [
18]. This activity was thought to be due to the flavonoids present in the polyphenol extract. Extracts from Rosemary (
Rosmarinus officinalis) have also been found to have good anti-elastase activity using spectrophotometric analysis [
13]. Plant extracts and natural products which have shown activity in these assays represent a wide variety of the types of phenolic compounds found in higher plants.
The aim of this study was to investigate the anti-ageing and anti-oxidant properties of 23 plant extracts (Table ) many of which are commonly found ingredients in cosmetic formulations (e.g. rose, lavender and witch hazel) [
19-
21]. Many intact extracts are used, along with tinctures or lyophilized powders from aqueous extractions, and thus in this study whole extracts as opposed to isolated fractions were investigated. The plants chosen are representative of 15 plant families in order to explore the diversity of polyphenolic compounds which may exhibit activity in the assays employed. The
in vitro assays were chosen to reflect the types of damage caused by radical scavenging in skin-ageing and to find activity by plant extracts which might counteract this damage. Hence, the anti-elastase and anti-collagenase activities of the extracts are reported along with the anti-oxidant efficacies observed in the Trolox equivalent anti-oxidant capacity (TEAC) and SOD assays. The total phenolic content of each extract was also determined.
| Table 1Plant extracts used in this study and some of their common chemical constituents |